Cosmic Insurance

by Jim Allen

This doesn’t happen often, but it’s the kind of thing you should think about once in a while. A common-sense array of tools, spare parts, and emergency gear ensures that you can deal with a situation like this for yourself or a trail buddy.

Have you noticed that when you prepare for something bad to occur, it usually doesn’t happen, and when you don’t prepare, it does. Being prepared is what I call cosmic insurance. If nothing else, the time, effort, and money spent beforehand ensures maximum fun on the trail later. It’s a constant; if you’re not prepared, the universe has a way of making you pay with a dramatic incident that makes you look like a moron and earns you an uncomplimentary nickname and verbal abuse from trail buddies. A certain amount of preparation is, of course, better than none, so let’s talk about the tools, gear, and spare parts you should carry to buy yourself out of cosmic trouble.

Spare Parts

We’ve all seen or done it: Some guy has a minor breakdown and doesn’t have a spare part. At best, somebody in the group has to supply it, strip their rig for it, or drive halfway across the country to get it. At worst, the broken-down rig is left for the buzzards (human and animal) to pick clean.

You can’t carry every spare part, so some things can be forgiven. But some breakdowns are unforgivable, and true wheelers feel like committing ritual suicide when breakdowns occur; most true wheelers would rather disembowel themselves or die alone in the wilderness than admit to being stranded over something as small as a fuse or a belt.

Switch panel is made from thick plastic sheet. Three-position toggle switch on far left allows rear floodlights to be activated manually or when vehicle is put in reverse. Far right toggle controls the side floods, while push-button switches in center handle the driving, fog, and front-facing floodlights.

The sidebar here has sample lists for spare parts; a basic list that should be in every wheeling rig and a “loaded-for-bear” list for when you’re going into harm’s way. The lists are subject to modification because each 4x4 has different needs. Your kit should be tailored to those needs. If you’re going on an uncharted track in the Sahara desert, then carry a higher-grade kit. Ditto if a rig has known problems and weaknesses or if you’re exceptionally hard on it. Just remember that vehicle performance and durability are compromised by the extra weight of carrying too much gear.

Carry only what you need to keep critical systems operational. Be as generic and one-size-fits-all as possible to reduce bulk. Plan for the most likely problems; not for wild-eyed survivalist scenarios. If a rig or certain parts of it are overbuilt for the terrain then those parts are unlikely to fail. Conversely, if a rig has known weak links then load up with the most likely parts to fail. If certain parts have had consistent failures and haven’t been upgraded (for shame!), those parts should be added to the pile.

Have kits for various levels of wheeling worked out. On an easy day, carry the minimum. When going into harm’s way, load the whole shebang. If wheeling in an area from a fairly close central location, consider leaving the heaviest stuff behind (driveshafts, axle shafts, etc.) knowing that a trail buddy can get it if necessary.

The All-the-Time Kit:

This kit covers most circumstances, especially with a well-maintained vehicle. Remember that some spare parts can be good used pieces that have been tested to work.

Inflated, serviceable spare tire that matches tires on ground.
Duct tape.
A selection of spare fuses, at least two of every size used in your vehicle.
At least one gallon of water over and above basic human needs.
Assortment of zip-ties, from tiny to huge.
Water pump, power steering, and alternator belts.
Radiator stop-leak, heavy duty.
WD-40 for frozen bolts and drying out wet electrical systems.
One quart motor oil, one quart auto trans fluid (also can be used in power steering), one pint brake fluid. Substitute one quart 90wt gear oil for ATF, in squirt type bottle, on manual-trans vehicles, but add one pint power steering oil. Motor oil can be used in place of 90 wt in an emergency.
One spare spark plug (if applicable), one spare plug wire long enough to work on any cylinder, points and condenser (if applicable), distributor cap and rotor (if applicable).
15 feet of 10-gauge wire (this wire is large enough to work nearly any circuit) and a few shorter lengths of smaller wire. A selection of crimp-on electrical connectors, 18 to 10 gauge.
Roll of baling wire and small roll of plumber’s tape.
Rags or HD paper towels.
Hand cleaner.
Tube of hi-temp silicone sealer.
Loctite thread restorer.
Small can of wheel bearing grease.
Extra tire valve cores, caps, and at least one new valve stem.
Spare set of keys.
Small can of miscellaneous hardware, including nuts and bolts, screws, washers, hose clamps, cotter keys, etc.
Quick-set epoxy (JB Weld).
Fuel-tank repair kit (epoxy type). Can be used on oil pans, trans cases, etc., with some extra prep.

A WWII-era armorer’s toolbox serves to hold all but the bigger spare parts I carry for my own rig. It allows me to sort stuff, rather than throwing it all into a box and having to dig for it later.

Heavy Duty Kit, Add:

This kit is an extension of the list above and should cover extended periods in primitive conditions or in areas with more breakdown potential. Variable according to your past history and how well the rig is built up.

A tire plugging and/or patch kit and at least one inner tube so that a damaged tire can still be made to hold air. Extra valve stems. Several extra lug nuts and wheel studs.
An extra fuel filter.
Brake cleaner spray.
Hose repair sleeves to fit your hoses. Hose clamps.
Spare locking hub (used okay).
Spare front axle u-joint or CV joint.
Gasket making paper.
Fuel line hose and clamps.

Load for Bear Kit, Add:

This is for hard-core wheelers in harm’s way. Variable according to situation and level of buildup. It’s simpler, more reliable, and lighter to upgrade to unbreakable status rather than carry a load of spares for a marginal rig.

Three quarts 90wt (in squirt bottles), three quarts ATF, three quarts motor oil.
For fuel-injected gasoline engines, spare control unit, spare fuel pump, and necessary installation pieces.
Carbureted gasoline engine, carburetor gasket set, needle and seat and spare float. Spare mechanical fuel pump or repair kit (low pressure electric in-line pump acceptable substitute).
Electronic ignition module and/or coil.
Wheel bearings. One each inner and outer, front and rear axles. Include one spindle bearing, axle seals, hub seals, and knuckle seals.
Starter or repair kit (mostly for manual-trans rigs that regularly start in gear).
Manual trans vehicles, repair kits for hydraulic clutch, or spare clutch cable.
Spare rear-axle shaft, one or both. If offset axle, short shaft is most likely to break first. If c-clip axle, spare c-clip(s).
Spare spider and side gears, shims, cross-shaft, and lock-pin (if applicable).
Diff cover gasket.
Complete spare front axles, both (delete spare u-joint). Alternate, one outer stub shaft and spare u-joint (usually the first to break and fits both sides).
ARB Air locker air-hose fittings, solenoid valve, and air hose (if equipped with ARB).
Larger selection of nuts, bolts, and hardware. Include specialty items, like extra spindle nuts, shock bolts, spring bolts, driveshaft u-joint bolts and straps, fill plugs, engine drain plug, tie rod nuts, etc.
Spare tie rod, w/ ends. Spare drag link with ends.
Spare driveshaft (most vulnerable one). Alternate or additional, spare universal joints, one of each type. Include bolts, caps, or straps (as needed).
Anything vulnerable or that has broken more than once (time for an upgrade?).

Tools

Tool kits on the trail run the gamut from ones that couldn’t keep a toddler’s tricycle going to ones that can make a shop tech go green with envy. Your tool kit is subject to the same rules as the spare-parts kit: keep the kit as small as possible but hit the high spots to do the most with the least. Ordinary hand-tools are a given; add special stuff for the reasonably expected repairs. (See the list in the sidebar for more detail.)

The most useful tools for a breakdown are knowledge and experience. Learn to work on your rig and understand how it works. The less you know, the more important it is to have a repair manual along for the ride. Knowledge is the key. I’ve seen mechanically ignorant guys, with full toolboxes and a good array of parts, staring at a dead engine with no clue. I’ve also seen woefully unprepared but knowledgeable guys, with little more than a Leatherman multitool and a handful of scrap, make some of the most amazing MacGuyveresque repairs. Neither extreme is particularly elegant, and the best place is somewhere in the middle.

The All-the-Time Tool Kit

This is the crawling-on-the-ground minimum for any vehicle. Most of this kit will fit into one 19x9x9-inch plastic toolbox. Beyond major overhauls, nearly every sort of repair could be performed with this kit.

Service manual.
A jack large enough to lift a fully loaded vehicle to change a tire. Make sure it has the reach to lift a rig if it has big tires. Include a one-by-one-foot three-quarter-inch plywood base for the jack to prevent from sinking into soft ground. Also include wheel blocks or determine if something in the existing kit will do the same job. Scrap those short, wimpy lug wrenches and buy one with leverage (or use a breaker bar and socket).
Two flashlights-one small for the glove box, and a large one for working. A 12-volt light with a long cord that connects to the battery is ideal as a work light.
Work gloves to avoid cut hands.
Three-pound sledgehammer for “persuasion.”
Eight- or 12-ounce ball-peen hammer.
Combination wrenches, quarter- to one-inch (or metric, eight to 24 mm). Add or delete as necessary to cover vehicle’s specific sizes.
Tubing wrench(es) (if applicable) to fit tricky fittings on a rig.
Socket set in three-eighth drive with six-point sockets as listed for wrenches, spark plug socket, 12-, six-, and three-inch extensions, swivel and long-handled ratchet. Optionally, a half-inch drive socket set could be substituted or a few of the larger sizes could be included with a breaker bar for those big, tight bolts.
Allen wrench set (if applicable).
Torx bit set (if applicable).
Test light for electrical circuits.
Wire cutters and/or combination wire cutter/stripper/crimper.
Pliers, combination and needle-nose.
Large channel locks.
Vice grips, small and large.
Wire terminal crimping tool.
Large adjustable wrench, 12 inches or better.
Small, medium, and large punches, center punch and a cold chisel.
Screwdrivers, large, medium, and small in standard and Phillips.
Hacksaw and extra blades.
Crowbar or prybar.
A spindle nut wrench to fit front axle and/or rear full-float rear axle (if applicable), with appropriate adapters to fit ratchet or breaker bar.
Files, including a good-size bastard file (coarse) and a couple of smaller, less coarse ones.
A siphon hose and funnel (suitable for ATF fill).
Jumper cables and/or jumper battery box.
Tire-pressure gauge.
Valve core removing tool.
Scissors and or utility razor blade/Exacto knife.
Air transfer hose.
Any specialty tools applicable to minor repairs on a particular rig.

Plastic toolboxes or soft tool bags are ideal because they cause less damage to other things and save a couple of pounds of weight. This is my normal tool kit, with which I can do most any repair.

A tire-plugging kit, like this one from Safety Seal, can save your bacon in extreme situations: like if you’re one of those unlucky folks to have more than one damaged tire on a trip. You can easily fix small problems. The kit can be used to get a slashed tire to hold air long enough to get you off the trail.

For Severe Conditions, Add

12-volt air compressor, portable or hard-mounted, suitable for tires. Chassis-mounted air tank a good option.
Battery powered or hand drill with a selection of bits.
One large and two small C-clamps.
Assorted wood blocks, 2x4, 4x4, etc.
Tire breakdown tools, including bead breaker and “spoon” bar.
Large pipe wrench.
Torque wrench.
Small grease gun w/cartridges.
Underhood welder, w/ welding mask, rod, etc. (optional, but useful).
U-joint installation tool (easier for novice wrenchers, but not necessary for experienced).
Any specialty tools applicable for likely repairs on a particular rig.

Survival

It’s rare these days that people are so far from civilization that they’ll face a life-or-death survival situation. That said, deaths do occur. Most of them involve weather or accidents, and it usually happens when a vehicle is on its own. Always travel in groups or at least in pairs in remote areas. This simple act puts the odds way in your favor. If you must travel alone, increase the level of preparation several times over in all areas discussed here.

Note the stuff you ought to carry anyway — prescription medications and special needs for passengers, toilet articles, food and water, weather-appropriate clothing, maps, and maybe even a compass or GPS.

Common-sense additions to a wheeling kit will realistically prepare you for emergencies. We’re talking first-aid stuff for sunburns, turned ankles, cuts, scrapes or bruises, motion sickness, altitude sickness, etc. (See first-aid kit in the sidebar.)

Communication gear is always a wise investment. This list could start with your cell-phone and a 12-volt adapter. You’d be amazed at some of the remote areas that have cell service (and the suburban areas that don’t...ahem!). A normal CB radio doesn’t have much range, though you can sometimes get lucky. A CB with single sideband capability will increase range. With a Ham license and mobile AM or FM equipment, you can call a cousin in Hoboken for help from the California desert. FM walkie-talkies are useless in this scenario. A weather-band option in any radio gear also is a wise investment.

Every rig should have enough stuff on board for occupants to survive at least a night in whatever weather situation is most likely to occur. That’s not too much, except in winter or in hot climates. Normally, all you need is water, snacks to stave off hunger pains, flashlights, and blankets. Take things seriously in the winter; extra clothing and sleeping bags are necessary for all aboard as well as high-calorie fuel food to help you stay warm. In hot weather, you’ll need shade and water — lots of water.

A First-Aid Kit

A common-sense kit that has most of what may be needed. It doesn’t cover every eventuality but is usable within the realm of most peoples’ first-aid knowledge. If you have any medical training, add to the list as experience dictates. Frequent four-wheelers are recommended to take a Red Cross CPR and First-Aid class.

Pain
Aspirin
Ibuprofen
Stomach
Antidiarrheals (Imodium, Pepto Bismol, etc.)
Antacids (Tagamet)
Ipecac (to induce vomiting)
Antiseptic
Alcohol swabs
Alcohol (liquid, in plastic bottle)
Hydrogen peroxide
Bandages
Selection of Band-Aids
Sterile pads, nonstick (Telfa)
assorted sizes
Tape
Sterile gauze roll
Steristrips (for closing wounds)
Large sterile dressings
Tools
Fine tweezers
Scissors
Splint (inflatable)
Cervical collar
Cold pack (for sprains and burns)
Face shield or mask (for rescue breathing)
Compact first-aid manual
Tourniquet
Sterile latex gloves
Sturdy case for first-aid kit
Skin
Sunblock
Calamine lotion
Hand cleaner
Oak & Ivy Armor (for appropriate areas)
Hydrocortisone creme
Antibacterial ointment
Sterile latex gloves

May 2005

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