XXXPEDITION
Part IIThe Flinders Range and Skytrek
THE FLINDERS ARE AN ANCIENT MOUNTAIN RANGE IN AUSTRALIA WITH ROCKS DATING BACK OVER 500 MILLION YEARS. THE RUGGED AND ARID SCENERY IS BREATHTAKING AND AFFORDS INCREDIBLE VIEWS AND FANTASTIC HIKES. THE CENTRAL FLINDERS ARE ORGANIZED INTO A NATIONAL PARK 280 MILES NORTH OF ADELAIDE AND COMPRISE ROUGHLY 100,000 HECTARES.
There are plenty of four-wheeling spots in this area, most on private land so you have to obtain a permit. These tracks are hardly challenging so the scenery is the main attraction of the area. The terrain varies from sand to rock and low-range is only needed for steep climbs and descents.
Hawker, a tiny village, is the last place to stock up on supplies and its gas station doubles as a tourist info center where useful brochures are available.
Probably the most renowned trail around is here in Skytrek on the Willow Springs Station, a 70,000 acre sheep property. It is about 38 miles long and takes roughly six hours to complete, including several stops to enjoy the breathtaking views. It was originally constructed to assist with mustering sheep and to build several mustering yards. It mostly follows along the ridge tops.
We had called the day before to book for the trek and to ensure that we could pick up our permit. As the owners are busy running the farm, they are not always at the residence. Guided tours can also be arranged. We arrived at the property around 9am and chatted with Carmel for a while, who provided us with a detailed map for the track. Along the way, 40 markers correlate to bits of information on the flyer about the history of the area, the farm, the sheeping industry and local fauna and flora. It was all very interesting and entertaining!
The trail begins with a run through a sandy gorge with gum trees and some Aboriginal petroglyphs. We crossed a few dry creeks and passed through many gates. Several fences are constructed to keep the sheep within boundaries, but we actually saw more emus than sheep. These large, flightless birds can run up to 30mph but appear permanently befuddled.
Long stretches of this trail can be driven in 2WD. We had already discovered that most “four-wheeling” in Australia usually means going onto a remote, unpaved road which does not necessarily involve tricky obstacles but requires a reliable vehicle with high clearance.
We passed through an ancient sea bed where wave ripples can be observed in some of the rock surfaces. This is testament to the history of this old continent which was once covered by huge seas and lakes.
Further down, we reached Old Moxan’s Hut where station employees used to live until the early 60s. It was built around the turn of the century and is one of many historic buildings in the Flinders. Skytrek passes through a protection area for the shy and rare, yellow footed rock wallabies and the government has granted users of the track limited access to this area. The animals are protected and you’re very lucky if you see one.
We got to the base of a mountain slope and started to ascend the steep rocky track. This part of Skytrek gives the area its name. We seemed to climb into the sky as we snaked up the ridge, then followed along the mountain side onto yet another ridge before hitting the top of Mount Caernarvon, one of the highest vehicle access points in the Flinders. The very rocky terrain reminded us a bit of some trails in the Big Bear area of California. On the top, the 360 degree view is phenomenal and a plaque names the neighboring peeks and formations. These rugged mountains are extremely beautiful in their starkness. After signing the guest book we slowly crawled downhill.
Towards the end of Skytrek, we detoured for four miles to Skull Rock, an impressive rock formation formed by calcium run-off. Finally, we returned to Willow Springs Homestead and handed back our key.
Back on National Park roads, we continued to explore some of the dramatic gorges and peaks of this area. We continued through Banyeroo Gorge and passed several backcountry sites which offered no facilities but beckoned to the visitor with their beautiful, quiet settings. We found Brachina Gorge to be one of the most stunning features in the park — the colors in the rock seemed to be ablaze and the rugged solitude was peaceful. We traveled along the river bed for a while; it was mostly dry and we crossed shallow water only once. With the jagged rocks, this is a bad place to be caught without a spare tire. Also, higher clearance might come in handy, though it is not necessary.
As the day came to an end more wildlife was active and every so often, an inquisitive kangaroo would eye us from the side of the road. They rarely found us intimidating enough to scatter. With a bounty of hiking trails available for all abilities and interests, it is easy to spend several days in this fantastic area, but, looking for more adventure we pushed on into the true Outback.