Feature > Backcountry Adventures
Wheelin’ on the Edge
story by Angela Titus
photography by Peter Massey & Bushducks
The trail overlooks Dude Creek, devastated by the 1990 Dude Fire. The National Forest created a map and a self-guided auto tour to tell the story of the fire.
The highest road in Arizona cuts 200 miles across the state at an elevation of 7,000 feet. From Sedona to the New Mexico border, the road hugs the Mogollon Rim (pronounced “muggy-own”), which features a dizzy, 2000-foot drop to the canyon floor. This geological phenomenon creates the backbone of Arizona and separates the low southern desert from the high-elevation ponderosa pine and cedar forests of the north. The Mogollon Rim Road further provides a serene perch to see forever over southern Arizona deserts.
A rock precipice along the Mogollon Rim.
The road follows sections of an original military supply route constructed in 1872 by General George Crook to connect Fort Whipple in Prescott to Fort Apache and Camp Verde. The military established the forts to protect early settlers from Apache Indians, who were rebelling against the takeover of their land and relocation to reservations. Crook took command of Arizona Territory’s military in 1871. His original journey from Fort Apache to Fort Whipple formed the basis of the route. During its construction, Crook’s men measured the wagon road’s mileage with a cloth fastened to a wagon wheel-a certain number of the cloth’s revolutions equaled a mile. Soldiers usually carved a smooth patch out of nearby trees and rocks and used fire to indicate mileage. For example, 13 miles from Fort Verde would be marked “V13.” Today, a few old trees and rocks still bear Crook’s original blaze marks.
Many landmarks along the trail are named according to the mileage of the old route, such as Thirteen Mile Rock and Twentynine Mile Lake. Approximately 15 miles from the western end and a short distance to the north of the main trail is the site of General Springs Cabin. Louis Fisher built the small wooden structure in 1914 or 1915, which, for many years, was used as a guard station. The cabin is beside a fresh-water spring used by General Crook and is reportedly the spot from which he narrowly escaped death during a surprise Apache attack. Camping around the historic cabin is prohibited, but the area makes an excellent spot for a picnic.
Opposite the turnoff to the cabin is the Tunnel Hiking Trailhead. Hike down to see the once ambitious project: a tunnel burrowed through 3,100 feet of the Mogollon Rim to connect Flagstaff to the rich mines of Globe by rail. The tunnel was to be a spur of the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad, which ran from Albuquerque through Flagstaff en route to the west coast.
Construction of the proposed 160-mile Mineral Belt Railroad began over incredibly rough terrain. Funding for the project dried up after only 40 miles of rail had been completed and 70 feet of rock had been blasted from the rim. The incomplete tunnel is located in General Springs Canyon, a low point in the rim.
Most of the narrow graded gravel and dirt road runs through a cool ponderosa pine forest. Many places on the road run along the rim with incredible vistas over the canyons and good rim-viewing angles. Take care walking to the edge, especially in wet conditions. Nearby trees feature memorial plaques for those who’ve accidentally fallen.
This burned clearing reveals the profile of the Mogollon Rim.
The road is uneven in places, but overall the main trail is not a technical challenge. Many smaller more challenging trails leave the main road. To the south, trails lead to more secluded viewpoints and campsites; to the north, four-wheel-drive tracks lead to spectacular overlooks.
General Springs Cabin was restored in 1989.
The area is a haven for campers. Backcountry campsites abound, but one of the best is at Hi-View Point, an exceptionally beautiful scenic overlook set on the rim. There are also developed National Forest campgrounds at Kehl Spring, just off the trail at Knoll Lake, Bear Canyon Lake, and several sites at Woods Canyon Lake, among others.
The eastern end of the trail within the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest runs within the popular Rim Lakes Recreation Area. Be aware that motorized travel is permitted on numbered roads only. ATVs are not permitted, and there are restrictions on camping in this area.
Get more information on driving this trail and hundreds more in the “Backcountry Adventures: Arizona” guidebook. Detailed trail directions, GPS coordinates, maps, and color photos ensure you’ll never get lost. Fascinating descriptions reveal little-known facts about ghost towns, mines, and other interesting sites on the trails. Purchase these trail guides at www.4wheelparts.com, 4Wheel Parts retail stores, and local bookstores and map stores. For more information, call 866-SUV-TRIP.